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Monday, June 16, 2008

The Peak of Suroloyo, Observing Borobudur from Sultan Agung's Meditating Place


The sun rises in reddish color at around 05:00a.m.; emerges among the green branches of trees. Its light divides the sky into three main colors: blue, magenta and yellow. When the sky color starts to be divided, a group of black birds starts to liven up the sky and turn down the loud voice of earth insects.

Four big mountains in Java Island, namely Merapi, Merbabu, Sumbing and Sindoro emerge among the white fog. The thick fog looks like the waves sinking the land that leaves only rice field forming track of ditch and trees on higher land. At the back of the fog, the black dome of Borobudur Temple emerges on the surface of the fog ocean.

You can see that scenery at dawn while standing at the Peak of Suroloyo, the highest hill at Menoreh Mountains at 1,091 meters above sea level. To reach the place, you must go through sharp binding road with steep grade, and start the journey at least at 02:00 a.m. There are two alternative roads to take; the first is Godean - Sentolo - Kalibawang route and the second is Magelang Street - Muntilan Market - Kalibawang. The first route is recommended for it takes you shorter time. You have to be physically in prime condition, your vehicle must be fully fuelled, and it is necessary to take reserved tire.

After 40 kilometers journey, you will find signing board directing to Sendang Sono. You can turn left to lead you to the Peak of Suroloyo, however, we suggest that you go straight ahead as far as 500 meters to reach small T-junction and turn left for smoother road. You still have to take 15 kilometers further to reach the Peak of Suroloyo. In fact, it will be a tiring journey, but the beautiful scenery pays for it.

You reach the Peak of Suroloyo when you find three viewing posts that are also well known as meditating places, each of which named Suroloyo, Sariloyo and Kaendran. Suroloyo is the first meditating place to see; it can be reached on foot by ascending 286 staircases at the slope of 300 - 600. If the fog does not block your view, you can see Borobudur Temple, Merapi and Merbabu Mountains and the view of Magelang city more clearly.

Suroloyo meditating place is the most legendary. The story tells that Raden Mas Rangsang who later was named Sultan Agung Hanyokrokusuma meditated in the place. In Cabolek book written by Ngabehi Yosodipuro in the eighteenth century, Sultan Agung received two divine inspirations. First, he will be the ruler of Java so that he was encouraged to walk westwards of Kotagede to reach Menoreh Mountains; second, he had to live asceticism in order to become a ruler.

Going to another meditating place, you will see different view. At the peak of Sariloyo that is located 200 meters west of Suroloyo, you will see Sumbing and Sindoro mountains more clearly. Before reaching the place, you will see a monument bordering Yogyakarta province with Central Java that stands on Tegal Kepanasan flat land. From Sariloyo, if you walk 250 meters and ascend to Kaendran meditating place, you will see Kulon Progo city with the beautiful view of Glagah beach.

After enjoying the scenery from the three places, you can walk around the Peak of Suroloyo to see the activities of local people in the morning time. Usually, beginning at around five o'clock in the morning, men go to field while smoking hand-rolled cigarette. When you walk by those smoking people, you will smell fragrant aroma of the incense that is mixed with the tobacco.

In addition to the enchanting view, the Peak of Suroloyo also keeps myth. This peak is believed to be the center of the four directions in Java Island. Local people believe that this peak is the meeting point of two lines drawn from north to south and from west to east of Java Island. With the myth, history and its natural scenery, this place is worth visiting on the first day of the New Year.

Giwangan, the Biggest Type-A Bus Station in Indonesia

When you travel to Yogyakarta by bus, most possibly you will stop at Giwangan terminal. This bus stop that is the biggest type-A terminal in Indonesia is located in an area with the same name of it. Starting to function since 2 years ago, this terminal becomes transit place for buses connecting Yogyakarta with other big cities in Indonesia such as Bali, Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Riau and Mataram.

This luxurious terminal that was built at tens million Indonesian Rupiah replaces the past Umbulharjo terminal. This new terminal is superior to the past one in many aspects. In addition to wider location, this terminal also has complete facilities. There is subway for passengers to get down from buses, separate parking lot for inter-city and city buses, gift shops, comfortable waiting room and praying room.

Getting down of the bus at the subway, a welcome board will greet you in block C entrance. Entering the block, you will encounter some small restaurants selling various menus, such as gudeg, Padang food, chicken soup, etc. Cleanliness of this terminal is maintained so well that makes you comfortable to have your meals there.

After having your meals, you can go upstairs to the waiting room in the second floor while waiting someone to pick you up, for example. There is a television set accompanying you while you are waiting; or, you can buy either magazines or newspaper in the shops nearby. For Moslems, they can say their prayer in a mosque at the north corner of the waiting room. At certain occasion, you can even get free health check-up.

Close to the waiting room, in block E, you can buy special food of Yogyakarta such as geplak, bakpia, yangko and intip. Telecommunication facility provides you with telephone and facsimile services. If you want to continue your trip, you can reserve your bus or travel tickets in some travel agents in block M. In order to get reasonable prices for either your gifts or your tickets, you need to be keen on selecting appropriate shop or agent.

If you want to go to your hotel or in-town tourism objects directly, you need to turn left after getting down of the bus passing through block C in order to get city bus. To get to Yogyakarta kingdom and Malioboro, you may take line 4 and 9. On the other hand, if you want to find a lodging in Prawirotaman, Sosrowijayan and Sosrokusuman, you can take line 2 and 15. The tariff of city bus is relatively cheap, namely 2,000 Rupiah per route.

Borobudur temple is reachable by bus that is usually available in the parking lot at the right side of block C. There, you can also get the bus to Prangtritis and Samas beaches, Kaliurang and Prambanan temple. For a distance of 30 kilometers, the fare is 15,000 Rupiah maximum. Each parking lot is completed with signboard telling the routes of each bus line.

Exiting the terminal, you will see traditional means of transportation, namely cart and pedicab. Its characteristic is seen from the design of the cart and pedicab that is different from ones in other cities. The horse cart, for example, has four wheels with bigger body compared to the horse cart in other cities with only two wheels. For relax trip, horse cart and pedicab are appropriate choices. One of the tourism objects that you can reach fast by pedicab or horse cart is Kotagede as the center of silver handicraft.

For those who come to this terminal for the first time, they do not have to worry. Clear signboards will guide you which bus to take. You can also ask some officers who are on guard in some points.

Wanagama


This forest area as wide as 600 hectares was once visited by President Megawati and some important officials of the country. Even, Prince Charles and Prince Bernhard left remembrance in this place. The path they took now becomes favorite path for visitors.

Funds from Silkworm

As long as 35 kilometers journey from the city center, under the hot sun, was quite tiring. Arriving at Gading village, however, the weather began to be cloudy. We turned to the right at the first junctions, passing through a street that only accommodated two cars. Arriving at the T-junction, we turned right and went straight the natural street with fields on both sides. At the end of the street, there was a gate with the writing "Welcome" greeted us accompanied with fresh air.

Wanagama that means Gadjah Mada Forest was only 10 hectares and was on barn areas. The Forestry Department of Gadjah Mada University, initiated by Oemi Hani'in Suseno and Tri Setyo assisted by Wagiran, a local inhabitant, reforested the area in 1964. The main objective was to find a model to cope with critical land in Gunung Kidul to be functioned as education forest and field research for the students of Gadjah Mada University.

The first planted plantation was mulberry (Morus Alba). The leaves can be used to feed silkworm and they do not fall off easily. The leaves are sold at 1 Ringgit (2,50 Rupiah) per kilogram by that time. The management as the buyer used them as silkworm feed. The results of the cocoon sales are used as development fund.

In this forest, there are camp site, lodging, dining room, sport facilities, hall, and - of course - classroom.

Enjoying the Scenery from Cendana Hill

Wanagama is located in Banaran Village, Playen District of Gunung Kidul Regency. There are two entrance ways but end at the same point. Unfortunately, the connecting bridge was hit by the quake and is under reconstruction now.

Going around Wanagama can be done by motorcycle of on foot by choosing challenging route. Riding motorcycle feels like going through the jungle in Jurassic Park film where visitors can only see the border of the forest on both sides.

The trip becomes an encouraging challenge. Groups of sandalwood, teakwood, acacia, mahogany, sengon, and many other trees will accompany your journey.

Climbing Cendana Hill that is higher compared to the others, you can see beautiful scenery of Wanagama forest. The green color of the forest and meadow, and the stream of Oya River of which water flows calmly in brownish color is reflected brightly by the sun. On bright days, the top of Merapi Mountain will be seen; it adds the beauty of Wanagama enchantment.

Sometimes, there are some deer relaxing around Cendana Hill. Visitors can see them clearly if they are lucky.

Relaxing at Oya River

Continuing the trip from west side to the north, visitors will see Oya River flowing beautifully in front of them. They can relax themselves enjoying the bright air and fresh water. Soaking face with the water will be so refreshing. Looking at the dragonflies and hearing the sound of water flowing in a small stream and the chirp of prenjak bird gives quietness to the mind. YogYES gets relax for a while here and breathe in the fresh natural air.

Close to Oya River, there is a waterfall flowing all the time. It is encircled by trees so that it looks like hiding its beauty.

In this forest with more than 65 types of timbers and hundreds of herbs, Prince Charles and Prince Bernhard left remembrance of teakwood (Tectona Grandis). The teakwood planted by Prince Charles is named Jati Londo. This tree becomes more interesting when it dried before reaching 1 meter high. It was coincidental with the publication of his separation with the late Diana Princess. After growing and reaching three meters high, this tree withered and broke. This was coincidental with the publication of his divorce. Then, this tree grew again with two branches.

Enjoy the evening while looking at the sun setting behind the horizon. When the sun begins to set in the west, tens of birds fly back to their nest. When night begins to hang in between the trees, the silence will slowly be broken by the choir of crickets. Tiredness of the adventure in Wanagama Forest is redeemed by the peace of nature.