Google

Monday, June 30, 2008

BANDUNG


Bandung is the capital of West Java in Indonesia. Bandung is 180 kilometers southeast from Jakarta. Although it has a population of over two million the pace of city life is slower than Jakarta's. Today Bandung has a population of 2 million people, Bandung area an estimated 4 million. Bandung is situated on a plateau 768 meters above sea level with a cool climate throughout the year. Bandung is the most European city of Java. The raining season starts in Bandung a little bit earlier, then the rest of Indonesia. Normally the raining season in Indonesia is from October till May, the peak of the raining season is in January. The dry season is from June until August, temperature is then 25-30 degrees Celsius during the day. In the morning, the sun is almost shining every day, but in the afternoon many times it gets cloudy, for sunbathing we have to wake up early from 6.30 the sun is already there. In the evening when the sun is down the temperature has drops. The average temperature in Bandung is 22 degrees Celsius; the weather is pleasant all year round.

There are short drives up to the mountain resorts of Lembang and the Bosscha Observatory, and higher to the volcanic crater of Tangkuban Perahu, the only crater in Java accessible all the way by car as far as its rim. It is an awe-inspiring sight of emanating sulfur fumes. Descent into all the volcano's 12 craters is only possible with the aid of an experienced guide, because of the presence of suffocating gases at certain spots.
Just a 15 minutes drive from Tangkuban Perahu is a hot springs resort. Here we can swim in warm mineral water pools, good for healing skin problems. The resort provides visitors with a bar, restaurants, tennis courts and cottage style hotels overlooking a beautiful mountain-scope.

In Bandung, try to see the "Wayang Golek" wooden puppet show and hear the "Angklung" bamboo orchestra, as well as the classical Sundanese gamelan and dances. Several institutes of higher education are located here, including the country's prestigious Bandung Institute of Technology.

HISTORY
In 1488, the area now named Bandung was the capital of the Kingdom of Pajajaran. During colonial times, the government of the Dutch East Indies built a supply road connecting Batavia (now Jakarta), Bogor, Cianjur, Bandung, Sumedang and Cirebon. This event was very important for the growth of Bandung. In the 1930s the Dutch East Indies government planned for Bandung to become the capital of the Dutch East Indies due to its location, however World War II disrupted these plans.

It is not known exactly when Bandung city was built. However, contrary to the beliefs of some the city was not originally built by the orders of Daendels, the Dutch East Indies Governor General, but by the orders of 'Bupati' R.A. Wiranatakusumah II. The Dutch colonial powers built wide tree-lined boulevards, villas, gardens, and fountains, earning Bandung the nickname of "Parijs van Java", the Paris of Java, in the early 20th century. Many of these structures survive to today, and can be seen along the road leading to the Dago area north of the city.

After Indonesian independence, Bandung was named as the provincial capital of West Java. Bandung was the site of the Bandung Conference which met April 18-April 24, 1955 with the aim of promoting economic and cultural cooperation among the African and Asian countries, and to counter the threat of colonialism or neocolonialism by the United States, the Soviet Union, or other imperialistic nations.


Monday, June 16, 2008

Banyusumurup, the Village of Keris Accessories

Looking at the process of the making of keris accessories is the most proper agenda after seeing keris collections and keris decorating process. You will get complete description on how keris and its accessories are made. For this purpose, you may visit Banyusumurup village that has been developing since 1950s as central of keris accessories handicraft.

Banyusumurup village produces warangka or keris seath functioning to hold the keris. This area is located to the south of Giwangan bus terminal. From the crossroad of Giwangan bus terminal, you go southwards and when you get to the T-junction, you turn right to follow the road leading to Imogiri. There is no taxi or public transportation to get to this village.

The cool atmosphere of the village will greet you upon your arrival to this area. Even though it has developed as handicrafts village, the atmosphere of this village is similar to villages in general; there is no signing board or direction board as you find in Kasongan village that is famous for its earth ware handicrafts. Most of the craftsmen produce keris accessories at household scale and by far there is no gallery or special brand of keris accessories in this village. Nonetheless, there is one craftsman whose products are famous, namely Mr. Jiwo.

In Mr. Jiwo's house, you can see the making process of keris seath that generally is made from brass sheet. Almost the same as carving keris, the making of the seath also uses very simple equipments namely hammers, carving nails, and the holding base from the asphalt. This process is less sophisticated than the process of making keris decoration since there is no raw material melting process.

The brass sheet as the raw material is first made a plain seath then soldering process is done. Next, to hold the case firmly for carving process, the plain keris seath is attached to the surface of the base holder made from the melted asphalt. The carving process starts according to the motif to be made. The craftsmen told YogYES that most of the cases are dominated with flowers motifs.

After carving process, the keris case enters finishing step. In this step, the carvings on the seath are brought out to contast by using an iron bar. To get brighter color, the case is polished with acidic substance. In the past, many craftsmen made use of lemon juice to brighten the color, but now more craftsmen use HCl substance for practical reason.

If you visit the other homes producing the accessories, you can see the process of pendok making. In general, most of the handles are made from tamarind wood in two styles, namely Solo style that is bigger and curved and Yogyakarta style that is smaller. Some of them make keris handles with varied designs, ranging from animals such as lion and dragon to human figures. To get the expected handles, the wood is carved according to the prepared designs.

Different from the craftsmen in Serangan village who still depend on orders, the keris accessories craftsmen in Banyusumurup village keep on producing new accessories everyday. When YogYES asked one of the workers in Mr. Jiwo's house, at the average each person produces minimum of 2 cases everyday.

Please visit this village and you will see various keris cases, handles, and other keris accessories in various designs.

Tamansari (Water Castle)


Formerly Tamansari was a recreation garden or a resting house for the Sultan and Family. The other resting houses including Warungboto, Manukberi, Ambarbingun, and Ambarrukmo functioned for the vacation and meditation for the royal family. The other function is used as hiding place for royal family to defend against the enemy assault.

Tamansari is located about 2 km south of Yogyakarta Palace. Built by Portuguese architect in European aquatic construction adorned with Javanese Symbolize ornaments. Tamansari was built in the Sultan Hamengku Buwono I period in the end of XVII Century. Tamansari not only just a recreation, but it's also a compound of bathing pool, canals, rooms and extremerly large swimming pool (if the canals opened).

The Tamansari complex consist of:

  1. The Sacred Room
    There is the sacred place in the complex showing a separated building, which once functioned as a hermitage place for the Sultan and his family
  2. The Bathing Pool
    This part was formerly a pleasure place for the royal family. Consists of two bathing pool that are separated with a 2-storey building. From this building the Sultan watched all the women swimming in the outer pool. Then he might ask some of them to accompany him into the inner pool. The water sprouts from a forming animal statue into the pool. The pool is also adorned with some big flowerpot.
  3. Kenanga or Cemeti Island
    This part compounds of some building such as Kenanga or Cemeti Island (forming Island), Sumur Gemuling and underground tunnels.

    This artificial island is a high building used as resting room and reconnoitering place. This will be the only building surfaced when the canals opened and the water over flew this area. From the higher place it like lotus floating in the middle of big pool.

    Sumur Gemuling is building constructed in circle such a well (Javanese: sumur) where some rooms formerly used as praying room.

    The tunnels in this area were underground passageways to the Sultan palace. The legend says about secret tunnel connecting to the south sea (Indian Ocean) where Nyai Roro Kidul or the Queen of the South has her palace. The supernatural Queen becomes the wife of Yogyakarta Sultan for many generations. This secret tunnels is gateway to the world where the Sultan meeting is supernatural wife. However the building also functioned as a hiding place for the royal family against the enemy attack.

Tamansari is an interesting place to visit. Besides the location is very closed to the Sultan palace, Tamansari has it owned speciality in attraction reflecting in some unimpaired ancient building and its atmosphere as the main tourist object of Yogyakarta.

There is Masjid Sokotunggal, a unique mosque with a single pillar that is different from Javanese traditional architecture. Although built in the early of XX century, the mosque gives another attraction of this area. Kampung Taman that lies in the Tamansari complex nearby known for the batik craft. Visitor can buy or watch handmade process for both batik painting and batik clothes. Therefore people from all over Indonesia and abroad have visited this village. Not for from Tamansari is Ngasem traditional market, the biggest bird market in Yogyakarta. All of those attractions have made Tamansari become one of main tourist object in Yogyakarta besides Yogyakarta palace.

The Peak of Suroloyo, Observing Borobudur from Sultan Agung's Meditating Place


The sun rises in reddish color at around 05:00a.m.; emerges among the green branches of trees. Its light divides the sky into three main colors: blue, magenta and yellow. When the sky color starts to be divided, a group of black birds starts to liven up the sky and turn down the loud voice of earth insects.

Four big mountains in Java Island, namely Merapi, Merbabu, Sumbing and Sindoro emerge among the white fog. The thick fog looks like the waves sinking the land that leaves only rice field forming track of ditch and trees on higher land. At the back of the fog, the black dome of Borobudur Temple emerges on the surface of the fog ocean.

You can see that scenery at dawn while standing at the Peak of Suroloyo, the highest hill at Menoreh Mountains at 1,091 meters above sea level. To reach the place, you must go through sharp binding road with steep grade, and start the journey at least at 02:00 a.m. There are two alternative roads to take; the first is Godean - Sentolo - Kalibawang route and the second is Magelang Street - Muntilan Market - Kalibawang. The first route is recommended for it takes you shorter time. You have to be physically in prime condition, your vehicle must be fully fuelled, and it is necessary to take reserved tire.

After 40 kilometers journey, you will find signing board directing to Sendang Sono. You can turn left to lead you to the Peak of Suroloyo, however, we suggest that you go straight ahead as far as 500 meters to reach small T-junction and turn left for smoother road. You still have to take 15 kilometers further to reach the Peak of Suroloyo. In fact, it will be a tiring journey, but the beautiful scenery pays for it.

You reach the Peak of Suroloyo when you find three viewing posts that are also well known as meditating places, each of which named Suroloyo, Sariloyo and Kaendran. Suroloyo is the first meditating place to see; it can be reached on foot by ascending 286 staircases at the slope of 300 - 600. If the fog does not block your view, you can see Borobudur Temple, Merapi and Merbabu Mountains and the view of Magelang city more clearly.

Suroloyo meditating place is the most legendary. The story tells that Raden Mas Rangsang who later was named Sultan Agung Hanyokrokusuma meditated in the place. In Cabolek book written by Ngabehi Yosodipuro in the eighteenth century, Sultan Agung received two divine inspirations. First, he will be the ruler of Java so that he was encouraged to walk westwards of Kotagede to reach Menoreh Mountains; second, he had to live asceticism in order to become a ruler.

Going to another meditating place, you will see different view. At the peak of Sariloyo that is located 200 meters west of Suroloyo, you will see Sumbing and Sindoro mountains more clearly. Before reaching the place, you will see a monument bordering Yogyakarta province with Central Java that stands on Tegal Kepanasan flat land. From Sariloyo, if you walk 250 meters and ascend to Kaendran meditating place, you will see Kulon Progo city with the beautiful view of Glagah beach.

After enjoying the scenery from the three places, you can walk around the Peak of Suroloyo to see the activities of local people in the morning time. Usually, beginning at around five o'clock in the morning, men go to field while smoking hand-rolled cigarette. When you walk by those smoking people, you will smell fragrant aroma of the incense that is mixed with the tobacco.

In addition to the enchanting view, the Peak of Suroloyo also keeps myth. This peak is believed to be the center of the four directions in Java Island. Local people believe that this peak is the meeting point of two lines drawn from north to south and from west to east of Java Island. With the myth, history and its natural scenery, this place is worth visiting on the first day of the New Year.

Giwangan, the Biggest Type-A Bus Station in Indonesia

When you travel to Yogyakarta by bus, most possibly you will stop at Giwangan terminal. This bus stop that is the biggest type-A terminal in Indonesia is located in an area with the same name of it. Starting to function since 2 years ago, this terminal becomes transit place for buses connecting Yogyakarta with other big cities in Indonesia such as Bali, Jakarta, Bandung, Semarang, Medan, Riau and Mataram.

This luxurious terminal that was built at tens million Indonesian Rupiah replaces the past Umbulharjo terminal. This new terminal is superior to the past one in many aspects. In addition to wider location, this terminal also has complete facilities. There is subway for passengers to get down from buses, separate parking lot for inter-city and city buses, gift shops, comfortable waiting room and praying room.

Getting down of the bus at the subway, a welcome board will greet you in block C entrance. Entering the block, you will encounter some small restaurants selling various menus, such as gudeg, Padang food, chicken soup, etc. Cleanliness of this terminal is maintained so well that makes you comfortable to have your meals there.

After having your meals, you can go upstairs to the waiting room in the second floor while waiting someone to pick you up, for example. There is a television set accompanying you while you are waiting; or, you can buy either magazines or newspaper in the shops nearby. For Moslems, they can say their prayer in a mosque at the north corner of the waiting room. At certain occasion, you can even get free health check-up.

Close to the waiting room, in block E, you can buy special food of Yogyakarta such as geplak, bakpia, yangko and intip. Telecommunication facility provides you with telephone and facsimile services. If you want to continue your trip, you can reserve your bus or travel tickets in some travel agents in block M. In order to get reasonable prices for either your gifts or your tickets, you need to be keen on selecting appropriate shop or agent.

If you want to go to your hotel or in-town tourism objects directly, you need to turn left after getting down of the bus passing through block C in order to get city bus. To get to Yogyakarta kingdom and Malioboro, you may take line 4 and 9. On the other hand, if you want to find a lodging in Prawirotaman, Sosrowijayan and Sosrokusuman, you can take line 2 and 15. The tariff of city bus is relatively cheap, namely 2,000 Rupiah per route.

Borobudur temple is reachable by bus that is usually available in the parking lot at the right side of block C. There, you can also get the bus to Prangtritis and Samas beaches, Kaliurang and Prambanan temple. For a distance of 30 kilometers, the fare is 15,000 Rupiah maximum. Each parking lot is completed with signboard telling the routes of each bus line.

Exiting the terminal, you will see traditional means of transportation, namely cart and pedicab. Its characteristic is seen from the design of the cart and pedicab that is different from ones in other cities. The horse cart, for example, has four wheels with bigger body compared to the horse cart in other cities with only two wheels. For relax trip, horse cart and pedicab are appropriate choices. One of the tourism objects that you can reach fast by pedicab or horse cart is Kotagede as the center of silver handicraft.

For those who come to this terminal for the first time, they do not have to worry. Clear signboards will guide you which bus to take. You can also ask some officers who are on guard in some points.

Wanagama


This forest area as wide as 600 hectares was once visited by President Megawati and some important officials of the country. Even, Prince Charles and Prince Bernhard left remembrance in this place. The path they took now becomes favorite path for visitors.

Funds from Silkworm

As long as 35 kilometers journey from the city center, under the hot sun, was quite tiring. Arriving at Gading village, however, the weather began to be cloudy. We turned to the right at the first junctions, passing through a street that only accommodated two cars. Arriving at the T-junction, we turned right and went straight the natural street with fields on both sides. At the end of the street, there was a gate with the writing "Welcome" greeted us accompanied with fresh air.

Wanagama that means Gadjah Mada Forest was only 10 hectares and was on barn areas. The Forestry Department of Gadjah Mada University, initiated by Oemi Hani'in Suseno and Tri Setyo assisted by Wagiran, a local inhabitant, reforested the area in 1964. The main objective was to find a model to cope with critical land in Gunung Kidul to be functioned as education forest and field research for the students of Gadjah Mada University.

The first planted plantation was mulberry (Morus Alba). The leaves can be used to feed silkworm and they do not fall off easily. The leaves are sold at 1 Ringgit (2,50 Rupiah) per kilogram by that time. The management as the buyer used them as silkworm feed. The results of the cocoon sales are used as development fund.

In this forest, there are camp site, lodging, dining room, sport facilities, hall, and - of course - classroom.

Enjoying the Scenery from Cendana Hill

Wanagama is located in Banaran Village, Playen District of Gunung Kidul Regency. There are two entrance ways but end at the same point. Unfortunately, the connecting bridge was hit by the quake and is under reconstruction now.

Going around Wanagama can be done by motorcycle of on foot by choosing challenging route. Riding motorcycle feels like going through the jungle in Jurassic Park film where visitors can only see the border of the forest on both sides.

The trip becomes an encouraging challenge. Groups of sandalwood, teakwood, acacia, mahogany, sengon, and many other trees will accompany your journey.

Climbing Cendana Hill that is higher compared to the others, you can see beautiful scenery of Wanagama forest. The green color of the forest and meadow, and the stream of Oya River of which water flows calmly in brownish color is reflected brightly by the sun. On bright days, the top of Merapi Mountain will be seen; it adds the beauty of Wanagama enchantment.

Sometimes, there are some deer relaxing around Cendana Hill. Visitors can see them clearly if they are lucky.

Relaxing at Oya River

Continuing the trip from west side to the north, visitors will see Oya River flowing beautifully in front of them. They can relax themselves enjoying the bright air and fresh water. Soaking face with the water will be so refreshing. Looking at the dragonflies and hearing the sound of water flowing in a small stream and the chirp of prenjak bird gives quietness to the mind. YogYES gets relax for a while here and breathe in the fresh natural air.

Close to Oya River, there is a waterfall flowing all the time. It is encircled by trees so that it looks like hiding its beauty.

In this forest with more than 65 types of timbers and hundreds of herbs, Prince Charles and Prince Bernhard left remembrance of teakwood (Tectona Grandis). The teakwood planted by Prince Charles is named Jati Londo. This tree becomes more interesting when it dried before reaching 1 meter high. It was coincidental with the publication of his separation with the late Diana Princess. After growing and reaching three meters high, this tree withered and broke. This was coincidental with the publication of his divorce. Then, this tree grew again with two branches.

Enjoy the evening while looking at the sun setting behind the horizon. When the sun begins to set in the west, tens of birds fly back to their nest. When night begins to hang in between the trees, the silence will slowly be broken by the choir of crickets. Tiredness of the adventure in Wanagama Forest is redeemed by the peace of nature.

Going along the Bank of the Mataram Ditch


During Japanese colonization, many Indonesian people were sent to different regions to be employed as forced workers or romusha. They were forced to build various infrastructures to support the Japanese military to fight the Alliance. The people who served as romusha suffered so much; they did not get enough food and they were treated so severely that many of them died.

This made Sri Sultan Hamengku Buwono IX - the former king of Yogyakarta - felt a pity and tried to put the romusha away from Yogyakarta people. He ordered the people to build an irrigation ditch as long as 30 kilometers from the Progo River to the Opak River, and objected to let his people to join the romusha by claiming that they still had to finish the project. The ditch was named Yoshiro Canal and up to now, it functions to irrigate teen-thousands hectares of rice field.

Going along the bank of this historical irrigation ditch on a motorcycle or a mountain bike promises a pleasant experience when it is done in October - May since from June to September this ditch is dried to cut off the contamination cycle.

The perfect start would be from the crossroad near the building of Magister Management of Gadjah Mada University on Kaliurang Road. There are two choices of routes from this point. We may choose to go westwards to meet the upper stream of Progo River in Ancol village of Magelang Regency. Otherwise, we may go along the Mataram ditch to the east direction that will end in Opak River in Kalasan. Starting at 06:00 a.m. is the right time with fresh air and warm sun and we can see many activities of the agricultural community.

Westwards

If we take to go westwards, we will directly see the green rice field after passing by the west Ring Road. When the sun rises highly enough, we will see it shining brightly above the green rice field and coconut trees of which shadow will be seen on the surface of the ditch water that flows quietly. Sometimes, some nature-lovers from universities practice canoeing here.

After going as far as 16 kilometers, we will get to Barongan village. The road in the area is muddy and slippery like an off-road route. We have to be careful in order not to be slipped. On both sides, we will see irrigation shutters regulating the water distribution from the ditch to the rice field. You will soon learn the importance of this ditch for the agriculture in Sleman Regency.

On this "off-road", YogYES experienced some pleasant events such as seeing the people who were pasturing ducks, buffalos, or goats. Once, we felt excited as well as worried of being attacked by the buffalos when we passed in between them while they were grassing on both sides of the road. After a tiring journey through earth road as far as 1 kilometer, we will get to a blind road (see photo) that is obstructed by the Krasak River that forms as deep as 5 meters path. Usually, the ditch will keep flowing through a bridge on the river, but there is nothing here. Where does the water continue flowing then? It turns to flow downwards, through a pipe planted beneath the earth, then flow up to the other side of the river. What is amazing is that no water pump is used! The physics law stating that the surface of the water will always be even is applied here (see picture). If we ride a motorycle, we have to return to take an asphalted road. If we ride a mountain bike, we can carry it on our shoulder to cross the shallow river.

About 5 kilometers away from Krasak River, we will come to Ngluwar village. Again, we will get confused since the flow of the water in Mataram ditch seems to disappear at all. We cannot assume that we have arrived at the upper course of the ditch since it continues to flow through the tunnel beneath the village. It is so amazing, isn't it?

Two kilometers to the south of the village, we will get to the upper coarse of Mataram ditch, namely the Progo River. A small dam named Bendung Karang Talun dams up the flow of the Progo River. The water from the dam then flows to the Mataram ditch. On Ancol bridge, over the dam, we can admire the fast current of the Progo River that is also used for rafting. This is where our journey ends.

Eastwards

We will see different view if we choose to go along the ditch in the same direction as its current, eastwards. Some areas we are going to pass by are Gejayan, Depok, Maguwoharjo and Kalasan. From Gejayan to Depok, we will see the city nuance with the presence of buildings and food-stalls. If we had not had meals, we can drop by the Bu Wiryo SGPC (sego pecel or rice served with mixed vegetable topped with peanut sauce) restaurant to the north of the animal husbandry faculty of Gadjah Mada University.

We see the green rice field only when we arrive in Maguwoharjo area. In some areas, we have to take the earth road since the asphalted road is sometimes built not in the same direction with the ditch. Generally, the earth road in this east area is dry and thus is not slippery, but we have to be careful of not falling in the ditch. We will be ok if we should fall in the water but it will be too embarrassing!

After reaching the Kalasan area, we will see an impressive panorama. From the earth road on the right side of the ditch, we can see the middle to the upper parts of Tara Temple. The spread of rice field and high trees will be the foreground. If we want to visit the oldest Buddha temple in Yogyakarta, we can take the asphalted road to the right.

From this point, we still have to go eastwards to reach the lower course of the Mataram ditch. On the way, we will find the ditch flowing under the railway. About 1 kilometer ahead, we will get to the downstream of the Mataram ditch. The water of the ditch will flow downwards fast to meet the Opak River flowing southwards to the Indonesian Ocean. The surrounding scenery is quite beautiful. High trees grow at the bank of the Opak River. This scenery signals the end of our eastward journey alongside the Mataram ditch.

Exciting and Amazing

In addition to giving a pleasant experience, going along the Mataram ditch will make us admire the designer. The course of the water flowing from west to east seems to "oppose" the nature law since the Merapi Mountain in the north of Yogyakarta causes the river in this region to generally flow from north to south. The ditch crossing over teen of small rivers and going through the tunnel under the Krasak River by applying the physics law, has been supplying water for teen-thousands of rice field for tens of years and it has been one of the landmarks of Yogyakarta.

King Boko Palace, the Glory on a Peaceful Hill


King Boko Palace was a glorious building that was constructed during the reign of Rakai Panangkaran, descendant of Sailendra dynasty. The palace that initially was named Abhayagiri Vihara (that means a monastery on a peaceful hill) was built for seclusion purpose and to focus on spiritual life. From this palace, you will feel peace and will be able to see Yogyakarta city and Prambanan temple with Merapi Mountain as the background.

This palace is located 196 meters above the sea level. The area of the palace as wide as 250,000 m2 is divided into four, namely center, west, southeast, and east parts. The center part consists of the main gateway, square, Combustion Temple, pond, square terrace and assembly hall. Meanwhile, the southeast part includes hall, platform, three temples, pond, and a complex for princess. The caves, Buddha effigy, and a pond are in east part while the west part consists of hills only.

If you enter from the palace gateway, you will directly be guided to the center part. Two high gates will welcome you. The first gate has three entrances while the second one has five. If you look it in detail, you will read 'Panabwara' writing on the first gate. Based on Wanua Tengah III inscription, the word was written by Rakai Panabwara (the descendant of Rakai Panangkaran) who took over the palace. The intention of carving his name on the gate was to legitimate his authority, to give 'power' to the gate in order to look more glorious and to give sign that the building was the main building.

About 45 meters away from the second gate, you will see a temple made of white stones so that it was named Candi Batu Putih or Temple of White Stones.

Close to the place, you will also find Combustion Temple. The temple is of square form (measuring 26 meter x 26 meter) with two terraces. The function of the temple is to burn dead body as the name suggests. Around 10 meters away from the Combustion Temple, there are sacred terrace and a pond.

A mysterious well will be seen if you walk southeastward of the Combustion Temple. As the legend tells, the well was named Amerta Mantana that means sacred water treated with charms. At present time, the water of Amerta well is still used. The legend tells that the water brings luck for anyone who uses it. Hindu people use it in Tawur Agung ceremony, one day before the Nyepi day. Using water in the ceremony is believed to support the achievement of the objective, namely to self purify and to return the earth and its content to its initial harmony. YogYES suggests that you visit Prambanan temple one day before Nyepi day to see the ceremony process.

Moving to the eastern part of the palace, you will see two caves, big pond measuring 20 meters x 50 meters and Buddha effigy that sits quietly. Those two caves were formed of sediment stones. The upper cave is called Gua Lanang (Male Cave) and the lower cave is called Gua Wadon (Female Cave). Right in front of Gua Lanang, there is a pond and three effigies. Based on the research, the effigy is known as Aksobya, one of Buddha Pantheons.

Even though it was built by a Buddhist, there are Hindu elements in it. This can be seen from the presence of Lingga and Yoni, Ganesha statue, and golden plate with the writing "Om Rudra ya namah swaha" on it as form of worship to Rudra as the other name of Shiva. The Hindu elements proved religious tolerance that is reflected in architectural works. In fact, Rakai Panangkaran who embraced Buddhism lived side by side with Hindu people.

Not many people know that this palace is witness of the initial triumph in Sumatera land. Balaputradewa once fled to this palace before leaving for Sumatra when he was struck by Rakai Pikatan. Balaputradewa rebelled because he felt to be second person in the reign of Old Mataram Kingdom because of Rakai Pikatan's marriage to Pramudhawardani (Balaputradewa's sister). After his defeat and escape to Sumatra, he became the king of Sriwijaya Kingdom.

As a heritage building, King Boko Palace is different from other inheritances. Most of other buildings are in the forms of temple or shrine, while this place - as the name implies - shows characteristics of a dwelling place. This can be known from the wooden poles and roofs, even though we can only see remains of stone building. Investigate the palace in more details and you will know more. One of them is the beautiful scenery when the sun is setting in the west. An American tourist says, "This is the most beautiful sunset on earth."

Pasar Klithikan of Yogyakarta, Hunting Unique, Used Things


A busy trading atmosphere is clearly seen along the west side of Mangkubumi Street at night. The place is central of used things trading named Pasar Klithikan or Klithikan market that was named after the sound 'klithik' of the things when the sellers throw the merchandises. Every night, the sellers spread their merchandises on a cloth or carpet with traditional lamp called teplok as source of the light. Meanwhile, tens of people stand around to select the things they are going to buy.

There is no fixed information of the onset of such a market. However, the name 'Klithikan' was initially known by Yogyakarta people since 1960s when economy was getting worse. The peak of the market that is located close to Tugu Yogyakarta was after the economy crisis in 1998. More sellers offer their merchandises and more people come to buy.

Pasar Klithikan in Mangkubumi is different from other markets for used things. It is superior in that its quality and uniqueness are well maintained. You can find old watches, old spectacles or contemporary items such as disc man, hand phone, motor spare parts, etc. at cheap prices. One watch can sell at 9,500 Indonesian Rupiah and an old hand phone can be bought at less than 100,000 Rupiah.

What attracts people is more that just used goods. Starting at seven o'clock in the evening, people begin to crowd the place. Usually, people look thoroughly at the goods before bargaining. Quite often, a buyer spends much time on bargaining to flatter the seller to give certain good to him.

Unlike in other used markets where you may only see people trade goods, here people may spend much time talking about certain item. Friendly conversation takes place between the seller and buyer. Sometimes, other buyers join in the discussion so that it looks like a social gathering. Big laughter and light curses makes the discussion vivid.

Other uniqueness of Pasar Klithikan is that there is no certainty of who are the sellers and who are the buyers. One person may positions as a seller at one time and a buyer at other time. If you have something unique, you can bring here and offer it to someone at the price you want to sell. Usually, the older the things the more expensive it will sell.

Although this market sells used goods, it does not necessarily determine that the visitors are of middle-below class only. From their appearance, we can see that they are from different social classes. Some of them come in T-shirts and shorts and some are neat and fashionable. They come for different intention from looking for economy-priced items to finding unique things for their collection.

With its entire nuance, Pasar Klithikan is worth judging as a tourism object and a place to spend your night. Second-hand merchandises are insufficient to negatively judge this market. The naming 'market' of this place is an added value since, actually, with no permanent building for trading, this place should be called sidewalk stall.

Please come and feel the characteristic nuance of this market. You might get something you are longing for without spending too much money, or meet with people of the same interest. If that happens to you, you will not forget the memory of visiting Yogyakarta.

The Story of the Mural at Galeria Crossroad


Galeria crossroad is presumably one of the hearts of Yogyakarta city. This crossroad connects the busiest areas in this gudeg city, namely Jalan Jendral Sudirman with the old Bethesda on it, the busy Jalan Sagan, Jalan Solo as the shopping centre and Lempuyangan area that is famous for its Lempuyangan railway station, the oldest station in Yogyakarta. The crossroad now becomes one of the most crowded areas with the busiest traffic.

If you only look or pass by the crossroad, it will be meaningless. However, when you know the history further, you will find it more meaningful. To the north east of the crossroad, there used to be a gambling centre. The place was always busy every night; it seemed like the Las Vegas in the small Yogyakarta city. As the story tells, whosoever got into the gambling centre would certainly be addicted and would be trapped into the gambling network in it.

In the past, in the west part of the gambling centre, there was a small warong. The small food stall witnessed the losers who lamented over their fate after loosing their belongings in the gamble. Those who got their fortune in the gamble rarely dropped by in this warong since they would spend their money for luxurious things. It was in that small warong that the losers would stare at the luxurious thing, Galeria Mall.

Now, the gambling centre has disappeared. Nonetheless, the trace of its existence is represented by the mural inspired by Farhanski and Apotik Komik with the theme of "Buying Dreams". The mural is painted on the west wall of the gambling centre. The idea of the mural originated from Farhanski's experience when he saw the losers lamented over their fate in the warong. The mural seems like teasing the gamblers who depend their entire life on fortune.

The description of the murals intending to satire the gamblers who used to gamble in the east area of the wall is clear. The big writing, for example, says "Urip Waton Ngglindhing", meaning life just goes on. The text satires the life of gamblers that seems lying on the dice, or just rotates like wheels, without planning or efforts to achieve better life. When they win, they become rich at once; when they lose, they become poor at once, too.

Another text still satires the gamblers, saying "Ngglindhinge wong ndhuwur iso mabur, ngglindhinge wong ngisor mundhak ndlosor", which means the winning of the rich will make them fly even higher but the lose of the poor will make them even worse. Another text reminds people of the livelihood, "Rejeki iku Gusti allah sing ngatur, ora usah ngoyo lan nggresulo", which means God has determined how much we get; we do not have to exert and to complaint.

The pictures in the murals highlight the messages of the text. There are pictures of 'king' and 'queen', the characters in the cards used in gambling. Pictures of luxurious goods such as diamond are also depicted in the murals. There are also pictures of wheels and feet that might symbolize the message of the text that the life of a gambler is like the wheel that must always rotate without anyone can predict what is going to happen.

Initially, the murals teasing the gamblers cover the entire wall, but now only some parts of them can bee seen. The other parts, especially the bottom part, are decorated with other murals by different muralists. The latter might be considered to damage the previous pictures, but actually they response to the previous ones by depicting other activities done at this crossroad. Again, murals can tell daily activities of Galeria crossroad.

The daily activities include posters sticking on the wall. Galeria crossroad with its crowdedness is certainly a strategic place to promote different products. Unfortunately, the posters seem do not care of the murals existence on the wall that are intended to take care of the neglected wall. As a result, some people paint the posters covering the murals as form of protest.

The protest against posters sticking is clear. The murals in the form of texts are made directly on the posters. When YogYES took a close look, the surface of the murals were not smooth; that indicated the posters underlying the murals. With such a protest, the sticking of the posters is still done until now.

So special the murals in this area that people in the location that make their living as vendors were involved in the making process. hus, the murals are not exclusive work of the artists but they were made by local community because what were described in the murals were discussed and made together with the people. During the completion of the works, they even had to change the themes three times.

Angkringan Lik Man, Spending Your Night in Yogyakarta with Kopi Joss


Do you know a famous place in Yogyakarta where university students, cyber communities such as bloggers and chatters, journalists, artists, pedicab drivers, and even hookers get relax and involved in a warm conversation? When you studied in this student city, where did you usually hold a discussion with your friends about your paper's themes of tasks? One of the places you mention must be angkringan Lik Man that is located at the north of Tugu railway station. It is understandable since the place is famous with Yogyakarta communities. No formal rules apply in this place but tolerance where people are willing to shares space, for example, and to aware of each other's feeling.

YogYES invites you to enjoy the nuance of angkringan Lik Man as many other people has experienced as well. From Malioboro Street, you can walk northwards until you reach an alley right to the north of Tugu railway station. If you turn left, you will directly find this famous place on your left side. To identify it, just look at two big containers connected with a bamboo, brazier with burning charcoals, and rows of neatly arranged glasses.

Angkringan Lik Man is legendary because the seller is the first generation of the angkringan sellers in Yogyakarta most of whom come from Klaten. Lik Man or uncle Man whose original name is Siswo Raharjo is the son of grandpa Pairo, the first angkringan seller in Yogyakarta who has been running this business since 1950s. The stall with angkringan concept that used to be called 'ting ting hik' was inherited to Lik Man in 1969. Since then, other angkringans mushroomed in Yogyakarta.

When you arrive in this angkringan that starts to open at six o'clock in the evening, you can order hot or cold drinks. The favorite beverage is Kopi Joss, coffee served with hot charcoal plunged in it. The superiority of such coffee is lower degree of caffeine after being neutralized by the charcoal. Such finding was resulted from a research done by some students of Gadjah Mada University who often hang around there.

The main menu is sego kucing that consists of some rice and stirred-fried tempe and tiny sea fish cooked with chili. Other food such as fries and fried jadah (made of sticky rice) are also available. The delicious sego kucing is sold at 1,000 Rupiah per portion. Sego kucing that is served warm goes well with fried tempe or others like skewered quail's eggs. It does not have to spend much money to taste delicious menu.

Most of the foods can be served warm if you want them to be. Just ask Mr. Man to warm them on the charcoal for a while. Some side dishes such as mendoan (tempe fried with flour), filled tofu, sweetened tempe, chicken head, and of course jadah are more delicious when they are grilled before being served. Usually people eat sego kucing on banana leaf as the packaging of it. Otherwise, you can ask for plates to put more than one portion of sego kucing.

Two seat arrangements are available for you to enjoy your meals. If you want to seat near the seller in order for you to chat with him or to ease you add some more dishes, you would better sit beside the brazier. However, if you want to be able to have a chat with your friends, it is better for you to sit on the mat spread on the pavement across the street. The spread of the mat reaches as long as 100 meter. So, don't worry of shorting of space!

Chinese Area in Yogyakarta, Historical Trading Area


Many people pass by this area when they walk southwards of Malioboro Street. Its enchantment, however, is sometimes neglected when people are absorbed in shopping. This kampong is named Pecinan or Chinese Kampong of which street name is now changed to Jalan Ahmad Yani. Passing through this street, you will see many shops and kiosks of tens years old.

Your journey can start from the side of the kampong, on the road beside Batik Terang Bulan shop to be exact. Arriving at the first alley, you may turn left to find legendary Chinese medication shop. There used to be a healer in the shop who could cure broken bones only with powder mixed from medication plants that was stuck to the skin surface of part of the body of which bones were broken.

Walking eastwards of the alley, you will find kiosks selling goods and services most of which are painted white. One of them is a Chinese traditional teeth kiosk offering teeth whitening service, teeth accessories installation in order to beautify them and other services to make them more interesting. The kiosk is painted light yellow with picture of teeth on its big front window.

In addition to the teeth kiosk, there are other kiosks selling Chinese cuisine such as noodle, cap cay, kwe tiau and so on. Other kiosks sell cakes materials, clothes materials, accessories and daily needs.

From Terang Bulan shop, if you walk westwards, passing through Jalan Pajeksan, you will find similar kiosks. What special is that at the end of the street, there is a place where members of Fu Ching Organization gather. The members of the organization are Chinese Indonesians who live and trade in the area. At certain occasions, for example on Chinese New Year, the members hold Chinese traditional events.

After walking around the area, you can walk southwards from Batik Terang Bulan shop. You will find a bakery named 'Djoen'. Since almost a hundred years ago, the shop of which complete name is 'Perusahaan Roti dan Kuwe Djoen' has been pride of Yogyakarta citizens. The age of the shop can be seen clearly if you stand across the street while looking at the name of the shop that is on its wall as the characteristic of the shops in the area in the past. Now, the products adapt market taste yet preserving some special cakes such as pillow cake, namely flat, oval unsweetened bread with sesames spread over.

Arriving at the Lor Pasar area or the north side of Beringharjo market, you will find traditional kiosks selling various needs, from electronics, sewing instruments and clothes accessories, cooking utensils to gold accessories. This place is famous with Yogyakarta citizens as the place to get goods at cheap prices. Some of the kiosks sell antique things.

A Chinese area located across Beringharjo market, there is an old medicine store called "Toko Obat Bah Gemuk". Various traditional Chinese medicines with famous efficacy are sold there.

Even though the image of this Chinese area fades a little bit, the presence of some old kiosks make this area still interesting to visit.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Tara Temple, the Oldest Buddhism Inheritance in Yogyakarta


Most people will mention Borobudur when talking about Buddhism temples. Whereas, there are many other Buddhism temples in Yogyakarta; one of them that is closely related to Borobudur is Tara temple. This temple that is located in Kalibening village in Kalasan was built by the same person who conceptualized Borobudur temple, namely Rakai Panangkaran. Since it is located in Kalasan area, this temple is popular with the name of Kalasan temple.

Completed in 778 AD, Tara temple becomes the oldest Buddhism temple in Yogyakarta. This temple that is situated close to Yogya-Solo Street was a present of the marriage of Pancapana of Sanjaya dynasty to Dyah Pramudya Wardhani of Syailendra dynasty. In addition to a marriage present, the temple was also realization of the kings' proposal to build another holy temple for goddess Tara and a monastery for the monks.

Tara temple is a building in the form of a cube with the size of each side of 45 meters and 34 meters high. Vertically, this temple consists of three parts, namely temple foot, temple body and temple roof. The foot of the temple is a building on square stones and a wide stone. On this part, there is a stair with makara ornament at the end. Meanwhile, around the temple foot there are ornaments of climbing plants that come out from pots.

The body of the temple protrudes at the central side. At the outer surface of the temple body, a hollow is ornamented with a standing goddess holding lotus. In southeast part, there is a small room with throne ornamented with the motif of a lion standing on an elephant's back. The room can be accessed from the other room at the east side.

The roof of the temple is octagonal and consists of two stories. An effigy describing Buddha is located in the first story while on the second story there is a statue describing Yani Buddha. The top of the temple is a square symbolizing Semeru summit with ornaments of domes. At the interface of the temple body and the roof, there is a flower ornament of a dwarf named Gana.

If you observe the temple in detail, you will also find beautiful relief on its surface; for example, relief of tree of god and cloud and the dwellers of the heaven producing sounds. The dwellers of the heaven hold rebab (two-stringed music instrument), shell, and camara. There are also ornaments of flowers, leaves and climbing plants. Relief at Tara temple is typical since they are coated with special cement called Brajalepha, made from sap of certain tree.

Around the temple, there are 52 domes as high as around 4.6 meters. Even though those domes are not intact anymore, since some parts are missing, you can still enjoy them. Visiting this temple of which construction history is known from Candi inscription in Panagari letters, you will acknowledge the greatness of Rakai Panangkaran who even had the opportunity to build a holy building in Thailand.

This temple also proves that in the past there was an effort to unite people of different religions. The proof is that Panangkaran who was a Hindu built the Tara temple in response to the proposal of Buddhism monks to be presented to Pancapana who is also a Buddhist. This temple is also one of the holy buildings that inspired Atisha, a Buddhist from India who once visited Borobodur and spread Buddhism to Tibet.

21 Yeas construction the Sambisari Temple "Puzzle"


Mr. Karyowinangun did not have any hunch of what was going to happen on one early morning in 1966. When he was preparing the ground for cultivation with his hoe, he felt it bumping a big stone. When he checked it, he saw carvings on the stone. Karyowinangun and the local people wondered about the existence of the stone.

Knowing the discovery, the archeological department came to the site and defined Karyowinangun's field to be archeological site. The carved stone was supposed to be part of a temple that possibly was buried in the area. Excavation was then executed to find hundreds slabs of stone and ancient statues. It turned to be true that those stones were components of a temple.

After 21 years, we can enjoy the beauty of the temple. The temple building named Sambisari stands grandly in Sambisari Village, Purwomartani Sub-District, Kalasan District, Sleman Regency, 10 kilometer away from Yogyakarta city center. You can reach this place by going eastward through the Yogya-Solo road until you see a signboard directing to this temple. Then, you turn left to follow the road.

Arriving at the area of the temple, YogYES first got surprised. Looking at the center of the temple area, there was an only pile of stones of less than 2 meters high. YogYES wondered if it Sambisari temple was that small? Approaching nearer, we will find the answer. In fact, Sambisari temple is 6,5 meters below the surrounding land.

Sambisari temple is predicted to be constructed between 812 - 838 AD, possibly under the government of Rakai Garung. The complex of the temple consists of 1 main temple and 3 supporting temples. There are 2 fences surrounding the temple complex, on the fences was totally reconstructed, while the other was only showed a little in the east side of the temple. Still function as borders, there are 8 stand phalluses distributed in each point of direction.

The main temple building is unique since it does not have shoe basement like other temples in Java. At the same time, the foot of the temple functions as the foundation to make the temple even on the ground. The foot part of the temple is left plain, without reliefs or decorations. Various elements most of them are of plants ornaments are found on the body to the outer part of the temple top. The ornaments look like batik motif.

Stepping up the stairs of the entrance of the temple, we will see an ornament of a dragon in the open mouth of makara (the magical animal in Hindu mythology). The figure of makara in Sambisari is an evolution of the makara form in India that can be in the form of a unification of elephant and fish or a crocodile and curved-tail fish.

The narrow verandah as wide as 1 meter will be found after passing through the last stair of the main temple entrance. Walking around it, you will see 3 cavities with one statue in each of them. In the north part, there is a statue of Durga (the wife of Siva) with 8 hands each of which is holding a weapon. Meanwhile, in the east side, there is Ganesha statue (son of Durga). In the southern side, there is Agastya statue with aksamala on his neck.

Entering the primary compartment of the temple, we can see quite big phallus and yoni measuring at around 1.5 meters. Its existence shows that this temple was build as the place for worshipping Siva. The phallus and the yoni behind this temple were also used to make the holy water. Usually, the water is poured on the phallus and let flow toward the small ditch on the yoni, then it is accommodated in a container.

Exiting from the main temple to go westwards, we will be able to see the three supporting temples (perwara) standing in the opposite direction. There was a prediction that this perwara temple was intentionally constructed without roof because when excavation was done, no roof stones were discovered. The inner part of the central supporting temples (perwara) has a square saucer decorated with dragon ornament and a padmasana on it. Possibly, padmasana and the saucers were utilized as places for statues or offerings.

When we have been satisfied with enjoying the beauty of the temple, we may leave for the information room. Some photographs featuring the rice field owned by Mr. Karyowinangun before the excavation and the early condition of the temple at the early time of the discovery. There are also photographs of the excavation processes and the temple reconstruction that lasted for tens of years, including the photographs of other goods such as bronze statues found during the excavation that are kept in Building of Archeological Heritance Preservation.

The beauty of Sambisari temple that we can enjoy at present time is the result of hard works of the archeologists for 21 years. The temple that initially looked like a giant puzzle was reconstructed piece by piece for the continuation of one more heritance of the great culture in the past.

Ijo Temple, the Temple Located at the Highest Place in Yogyakarta


Going along the street leading to the southern part of Queen Boko Palace complex is such an exciting journey, especially for cultural tourism lovers. The reason is that there are so many temples mushrooming in that area. One of them that is rarely talked about is Candi Ijo or Ijo Temple; one temple of which location is the highest compared to other temples in Yogyakarta.

Ijo Temple was built in around the ninth century on a hill named the Green Hill of which height is 410 meters above the sea level. Because of this height, we can enjoy not only the temple but also natural view below such as terraces of agriculture land with its steep slope. Even though this is not a fertile area, natural view around the temple is so beautiful to enjoy.

The complex of the temple consists of 17 building structures that are divided into 11 terraces. The first terrace functioning as the yard leading to the entrance is a terrace with staircase stretching from west to east. The building on the eleventh terrace is in the form of encircling wall, eight pole phallus, four buildings namely the main temple, and three ancillary temples. The placement of the building on each terrace is based on the level of its being sacral. The building on the highest terrace is the most sacral.

Variants of painting are found since the entrance of this Hindu temple. Right on the entrance gate, there is a motif of double head giant and some of its attributes. Such motif and attributes found in Buddhist temples show that such temples are acculturation forms of Hindu and Buddha cultures. Some temples having such giant motif are Ngawen, Plaosan and Sari.

There is also a statue describing flying woman and man directing to certain side. Such description can have some meanings; first, as spells to expel evil spirit and second as symbol of unity between god Siva and goddess Umi. The unity is meant as the onset of universe creation. Different from the statues in Prambanan Temple, natural style of the statues in Ijo Temple do not lead to eroticism.

Approaching the ancillary temples on the eleventh terrace, there is a pit possible used to burn sacrifice. Right on the upper part of the pit back wall there are ventilations in the forms of trapezium and triangle. The pit reflects the Hindu community that adores Brahma, the god of fire. The three ancillary temples show community adoration to the three Hindu gods, namely Brahma, Siva, and Vishnu.

Some of the works that keep mystery are two inscriptions located in the temple building on the ninth terrace. One of the inscriptions is coded by letter F with the writing Guywan or Bluyutan meaning place for meditation. Another inscription is made of stone as high as 14 cm and as thick as 9 cm containing magic spells that are predicted to be curses. The magic spells were written 16 times and parts of them read "Om Sarwwawinasa, Sarwwawinasa." The two inscriptions may relate closely to certain occurrences in Java by that time. What were the occurrences? They are not revealed yet up to now.

Visiting this temple, you will find beautiful scenery that other temples do not have. Looking down westwards, you will see airplane taking off and landing at Adisutjipto International Airport. You see this scenery because the Seribu Mountains where Ijo Temple is located is the border of the east part of the airport. It is because of the presence of this temple that Adisutjipto Airport cannot be lengthened eastwards.

Each detail of the temple presents meaningful thing and invites the visitors to make a reflection so that the journey will not just be fun time. Great paintings without the name of the creators show life philosophy of the past Javanese community that emphasized more on moral message presented by the works rather than the creators or the greatness of their works.

Plaosan Temple, the Twin Temple in Yogyakarta


After visiting Prambanan temple, you should not rush to your hotel, because close to the beautiful Hindu temple, you can also see other interesting temples. Moving 1 kilometer northwards, you will find Plaosan Temple; a temple constructed by Rakai Pikatan for her wife, Pramudyawardani. The architect of the temple that is located in Bugisan village of Prambanan sub-district is combination of Hindu and Buddha.

Plaosan complex is divided into 2 groups, namely the North Plaosan Temple and the South Plaosan Temple. Both of the temples have square terrace that is encircled by wall, a pillbox for meditation at the west part and dome on other side. Because of that similarity, the appearance of both temples are the same when they are seen from distant so that Plaosan temple is also called the twin temples.

The North Plaosan Temple has middle courtyard encircled by wall with the entrance at the west side. In the middle of the courtyard, there is a hall as wide as 21.62 m x 19 m. At the eastern part of the hall, there are 3 altars, namely north, east and south altars. The pictures of Amitbha, Ratnasambhava, Vairochana, and Aksobya are at the east altar. Samantabadhara statue and Ksitigarba figure is at the north altar, while Manjusri picture is at the west alter.

The South Plaosan temple also has a hall at the center that is encircled by 8 small temples that is divided into 2 ranks and each rank consists of 4 temples. There also pictures of Tathagata Amitbha, Vajrapani with vajra attribute at the utpala and Pranjaparamita who was considered "the mother of all Buddha". Some other pictures can still be found but not at their original places. Manujri figure that according to a Dutch scientist named Krom is significant can also be seen.

Part of this bas relief has unique picture of man and woman. There is a man described as sitting cross-legged with worshipping hands and a figure of a man with vara mudra and vse at his leg encircled by six smaller men. A woman is described as standing with vara mudra hands, while there are book, pallet, and vase around her. Krom explains that figures of those man and woman are descriptions of supporting patron from two monasteries.

The entire complex of Plaosan temple has 116 ancillary domes and 50 ancillary temples. Ancillary domes can be seen on each side of the main temple, as can smaller ancillary temples. Walking northwards, you can see open building called Mandapa. Two inscriptions can also be found; they are the inscription on gold coin at the north of the main temple and an inscription written on a stone in the first line of the ancillary temples.

One of the characteristics of Plaosan temple is the smooth surface of the terrace. Krom explains that such a terrace is different from other temples of the same time. To his opinion, it is related to the function of a temple by that time that is predicted to keep canonical texts owned by Buddhist monks. Other prediction by Dutch scientists, if the number of monks in that area is small then the terrace might be used as a place for Buddhists to pray.

If you go around the temple complex, you will notice that the complex of Plaosan temple is wide. That can also be noticed from long fence stretching 460 meters from north to south and 290 meters from west to east. There is also moat inside stretching as long as 440 meters from north to south and 270 meters from west to east. The moat can be seen by walking eastwards through the middle part of this historical building.

Candi Gebang (Gebang Temple)


The local inhabitant discovered the Gebang temple in November 1936 in a form of Ganesha statue. Based on the finding, the Archeological Services began to investigate, resulting that the Ganesha statue should not stand alone, but a part of a building. To follow up the results, a digging up around the location of the Ganesha statue began. Ruins of temple roof were found on which a little part of the body and the base appeared to be intact.

After the digging, an experiment on its previous construction was carried out. It initiated the reconstruction even though some substituting stones were used for a part of the body. The restoration of the Gebang temple was carried out from 1937 to 1939, led by Prof. Dr. Ir. Van Romondt.

Description of the building of Candi Gebang (Gebang Temple)

The squared building of 5.25 x 5.25 m and 7.75 in height has a high proportion of the feet without any relief on it (plain). There is no entrance stairs, or it is probably made of wood or other breakable materials so that nobody has discovered it by now. It becomes one of its specialties. Another one is that the center point of the temple is laid on the center point of the temple site.

Inside the body, there is a room with eastern front on which the Yoni placed. On the right ant left sides there are the Nandiswara statues, while there is not any statue in the room of Mahakala. (Note: When YogYES.COM were visiting it in February 2004, the Nandiswara statue did not exist). The rooms in the north and south sides were empty. In the west, statue sitting on a Yoni with its nozzle looks on the north a Ganesha. On the top, there is a Lingga on a lotus, as its pad. On the top of it is in a shape of Lingga, namely in cylindrical. In the roof, there is a small room like a hollow space on the real room of the temple. In the yard, there is a pseudo-Lingga (or stakes) on its four corners.

Historical Background of Candi Gebang (Gebang Temple)

There has not been assuring historical background on this temple by now. At least, it is certainly a temple of Hinduism, marked by the existing Lingga, Yoni, and Ganesha statue. Besides, its high proportional feet indicate that if comes from an old period (± years 730-800). According to Van Romondt, however, the Gebang temple was established in the starting age of "Central Java".

Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple)



Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple) is 3 kilometers eastward from Borobudur Temple. It is a Buddhist temple, built in 824 A.D. by King Indera of Cailendra dynasty.

There are three big statues inside, they are:

  1. Cakyamuni sitting in cross legged pose with dharma cakra mudra (= turning the wheel of dharma hand pose)
  2. Awalokiteswara, a bodhi satwa as human being helper.
    Awalokiteswara is a statue with Amitabha on her crown, Vajrapani. She is holding a red lotus and put on her palm.
  3. Maitreya, a savior of human beings in the future.

There are stories for children on its walls.

Candi Mendut (Mendut Temple) is frequently used to celebrate the Waisak day every May full moon and the pilgrims from Indonesia and all parts of the world come to this ceremony.

It is older than Candi Borobudur. Its architecture is square, and having an entrance on its steps. Its roof is also square and terraced. There are stupas (= bell-shaped structures) on it.

Prambanan, the Most Beautiful Hindu Temple in the World


Prambanan temple is extraordinarily beautiful building constructed in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung. Soaring up to 47 meters (5 meters higher than Borobudur temple), the foundation of this temple has fulfilled the desire of the founder to show Hindu triumph in Java Island. This temple is located 17 kilometers from the city center, among an area that now functions as beautiful park.

There is a legend that Javanese people always tell about this temple. As the story tells, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues only in one-night time. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to look like morning had broken. Feeling to be cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.

Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva temples. Those three temples are symbols of Trimurti in Hindu belief. All of them face to the east. Each main temple has accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandini for Shiva, Angsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are 2 flank temples, 4 kelir temples and 4 corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.

Entering Shiva temple, the highest temple and is located in the middle, you will find four rooms. One main room contains Shiva statue, while the other three rooms contain the statues of Durga (Shiva's wife), Agastya (Shiva's teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva's son). Durga statue is said to be the statue of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend.

In Vishnu temple, to the north of Shiva temple, you will find only one room with Vishnu statue in it. In Brahma temple, to the south of Shiva temple, you find only room as well with Brahma statue in it.

Quite attractive accompanying temple is Garuda temple that is located close to Vishnu temple. This temple keeps a story of half-bird human being named Garuda. Garuda is a mystical bird in Hindu mythology. The figure is of golden body, white face, red wings, with the beak and wings similar to eagle's. It is assumed that the figure is Hindu adaptation of Bennu (means 'rises' or 'shines') that is associated with the god of the Sun or Re in Old Egypt mythology or Phoenix in Old Greek mythology. Garuda succeeded in saving his mother from the curse of Aruna (Garuda's handicapped brother) by stealing Tirta Amerta (the sacred water of the gods).

Its ability to save her mother made many people admire it to the present time and it is used for various purposes. Indonesia uses the bird as the symbol of the country. Other country using the same symbol is Thailand, with the same reason but different form adaptation and appearance. In Thailand, Garuda is known as Krut or Pha Krut.

Prambanan also has panels of relief describing the story of Ramayana. Experts say that the relief is similar to the story of Ramayana that is told orally from generation to generation. Another interesting relief is Kalpataru tree that - in Hindu - the tree is considered tree of life, eternity and environment harmony. In Prambanan, relief of Kalpataru tree is described as flanking a lion. The presence of this tree makes experts consider that Javanese society in the ninth century had wisdom to manage its environment.

Just like Garuda, Kalpataru tree is also used for various purposes. In Indonesia, Kalpataru is used as the logo of Indonesian Environment Institution. Some intellectuals in Bali even develop "Tri Hita Karana" concept for environment conservation by seeing Kalpataru relief in this temple. This tree of life is also seen in the gunungan (the puppet used as an opening of traditional puppet show or wayang kulit). This proves that relief panels in Prambanan have been widely known throughout the world.

If you see the relief in detail, you will see many birds on them; they are real birds as we can see on the earth right now. Relief panels of such birds are so natural that biologists can identify their genus. One of them is the relief of the Yellow-Crest Parrot (Cacatua sulphurea) that cites unanswered question. The reason is that the bird only exists in Masakambing Island, an island in the middle of Java Sea. Then, did the bird exist in Yogyakarta? No body has succeeded in revealing the mystery.

You can discover many more things in Prambanan. You can see relief of Wiracarita Ramayana based on oral tradition. If you feel tired of enjoying the relief, you can take a rest in the beautiful garden in the complex. Since 18 September 2006, you can enter zone 1 area of Prambanan temple. The damage caused by the earthquake on 27 May 2006 is being reconstructed. Please come and enjoy Prambanan temple.

Borobudur, the Biggest Buddhist Temple in the Ninth Century


Who does not know Borobudur? This Buddhist temple has 1460 relief panels and 504 Buddha effigies in its complex. Millions of people are eager to visit this building as one of the World Wonder Heritages. It is not surprising since architecturally and functionally, as the place for Buddhists to say their prayer, Borobudur is attractive.

Borobudur was built by King Samaratungga, one of the kings of Old Mataram Kingdom, the descendant of Sailendra dynasty. Based on Kayumwungan inscription, an Indonesian named Hudaya Kandahjaya revealed that Borobudur was a place for praying that was completed to be built on 26 May 824, almost one hundred years from the time the construction was begun. The name of Borobudur, as some people say, means a mountain having terraces (budhara), while other says that Borobudur means monastery on the high place.

Borobudur is constructed as a ten-terraces building. The height before being renovated was 42 meters and 34.5 meters after the renovation because the lowest level was used as supporting base. The first six terraces are in square form, two upper terraces are in circular form, and on top of them is the terrace where Buddha statue is located facing westward. Each terrace symbolizes the stage of human life. In line with of Buddha Mahayana, anyone who intends to reach the level of Buddha's must go through each of those life stages.

The base of Borobudur, called Kamadhatu, symbolizes human being that are still bound by lust. The upper four stories are called Rupadhatu symbolizing human beings that have set themselves free from lust but are still bound to appearance and shape. On this terrace, Buddha effigies are placed in open space; while the other upper three terraces where Buddha effigies are confined in domes with wholes are called Arupadhatu, symbolizing human beings that have been free from lust, appearance and shape. The top part that is called Arupa symbolizes nirvana, where Buddha is residing.

Each terrace has beautiful relief panels showing how skillful the sculptors were. In order to understand the sequence of the stories on the relief panels, you have to walk clockwise from the entrance of the temple. The relief panels tell the legendary story of Ramayana. Besides, there are relief panels describing the condition of the society by that time; for example, relief of farmers' activity reflecting the advance of agriculture system and relief of sailing boat representing the advance of navigation in Bergotta (Semarang).

All relief panels in Borobudur temple reflect Buddha's teachings. For the reason, this temple functions as educating medium for those who want to learn Buddhism. YogYES suggests that you walk through each narrow passage in Borobudur in order for you to know the philosophy of Buddhism. Atisha, a Buddhist from India in the tenth century once visited this temple that was built 3 centuries before Angkor Wat in Cambodia and 4 centuries before the Grand Cathedrals in Europe.

Thanks to visiting Borobudur and having supply of Buddha teaching script from Serlingpa (King of Sriwijaya), Atisha was able to improve Buddha's teachings after his return to India and he built a religion institution, Vikramasila Buddhism. Later he became the leader of Vikramasila monastery and taught Tibetans of practicing Dharma. Six scripts from Serlingpa were then summarized as the core of the teaching called "The Lamp for the Path to Enlightenment" or well known as Bodhipathapradipa.

A question about Borobudur that is still unanswered by far is how the condition around the temple was at the beginning of its foundation and why at the time of it's finding the temple was buried. Some hypotheses claim that Borobudur in its initial foundation was surrounded by swamps and it was buried because of Merapi explosion. It was based on Kalkutta inscription with the writing 'Amawa' that means sea of milk. The Sanskrit word was used to describe the occurrence of disaster. The sea of milk was then translated into Merapi lava. Some others say that Borobudur was buried by cold lava of Merapi Mountain.

With the existing greatness and mystery, it makes sense if many people put Borobudur in their agenda as a place worth visiting in their lives. Besides enjoying the temple, you may take a walk around the surrounding villages such as Karanganyar and Wanurejo. You can also get to the top of Kendil stone where you can enjoy Borobudur and the surrounding scenery. Please visit Borobudur temple right away...